Showing posts with label yoga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label yoga. Show all posts

Tuesday, October 16, 2018

55 Reflections: meanderings of a globalist

Yes, I just turned 55! Whew...


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1. The oldest person in the world died recently at 110yrs old, wow, so I'm half way there.

2. I'm 40 years younger than my Auntie Margaret who while 1 generation away from me is actually 2 generations older right? My eldest son is 43 years younger than me, he could also be my grandson.



3. I was born in 1963 as the jet engine was taking off (literally) for commercial passenger transportation. To emigrate to Canada in 1967 we had to fly from the UK via Gander, Newfoundland (bless) and then go through immigration at the Port of Montreal and then fly on to Edmonton in Alberta. (my Mum did this on her own with a mountain of baggage, 3kids under 4yrs old and my brother who was a very helpful 10yr old!) This year I flew from Singapore to London in one hop on the Dreamliner. Cool right? Yet it has to be said that jet travel hasn't changed much at all in terms of what it actually is. Sure it is more efficient in fuel consumption because planes are lighter and so they can fly higher, further, faster but they still burn fossil fuel in a turbine driven internal combustion engine. Thing is though they still transport us in a linear dimension from a to b over a continuum of time. Why is that I wonder? (hint: big oil)

4. All said, air travel is the miracle of our time imho, the way planes now fly at over 10,000m, at over 1000km/h, catching the jet stream, soaring over the poles... its all quite sick. Airports still suck... been to CDG in Paris or LHR or UIO (Quito) lately? Chinese airports like in Kunming… sheesh!  On the bright side there are airports like Changi in Singapore, the KLM terminal at Schipol and the new Indian airports which are beginning to help ease the pain, otherwise they are still like big bus stations and I'd still prefer teleportation from one couch to the next.

5. Music has gone wobbly, in the '60's it was fine, there were recognizable genres and some amazing innovations in Jazz, Hip Hop, Reggae, Rock n Roll, Punk,  etc... there has been a serious splintering a new genre every new album, electronic music has opened up a new esoteric (psychedelic) world and soon every band playing original songs will be its own genre if not already... does our understanding of 'what is genre' get wider or narrower?

6. Access to Music and music storage has changed incredibly in my lifetime from the radio, to vinyl records 45's, 78's, to 8 tracks, to cassettes to CD's, USB storage devices and now...  you can store your music on a cloud and still play it in your car... what’s the next thing?

7. Plastic has become the most evil thing on the planet, and it is really evil. Plastic came into common use in the 60's and every piece of plastic produced then and since then still occupies the planet... 8.3billion tonnes https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-40654915. This is sick and it is now entering the food chain in a manner that will shout at us through our bodies and their illnesses. The consumption of fossil fuels is what will kill us and the planet.... oh yes, doncha know, plastic is made from oil and gas... google it.

8. My generation bears the blame for not waking up soon enough to the excesses and indulgences that we have enjoyed through our childhood and that have brought on the destruction of our ecosystem. We (and while we can blame corporations and Keynesian economics),we are culpable because we have ignored the warnings on global climate change passed down very clearly from the Earth Summit in Rio in 1990, 38 years ago. We have known things were going badly awry and we haven’t acted with nearly enough urgency not on an individual, collective, governmental (dare I say corporate?) or regional level to stop it. Government, big oil and corporate media share the same bed.

9. We figure we are the smartest beings on the planet, and yet we are the only species to engage in activities that are destroying it, Initially (the agricultural revolution) and later in the industrial revolution we didn’t really understand the science and anyway the population pressure didn’t really present our activities as much of a problem… now and for decades we have understood it and still we didn’t act, how smart is that?

10. Technological advances in the computerization (now the digitalization) of everything have been simply amazing, has it been a good thing? Or has it moved too fast? As we head into the kind of scary age of robotics I'm not very convinced we are ready for it.

11. Miniaturization has really taken hold, back in the day at my University the computer was in one big ventilated room, the work-stations, monitors and keyboards in another with cables connecting them all. It's a good thing everything has become smaller, carrying around a desk-top sized computer in your pocket is just not convenient. The question though is when miniaturization leads to skin and iris implants and the opportunity for constant monitoring of our everything… have we reached the moment to stop?

12. Unprotected sex is dangerous these days, has been for a while, though it hasn’t been like that forever. The sexual revolution of the 60’s and 70’s changed it all in the Western countries from whence I come. The condom, well its still the condom after all these years ‘bagging it’ is the same as it ever was. Flavours have changed, bumps, ribs and dots in various combinations but otherwise, a rubber is still a rubber. And still it is as disliked by men and women alike.

13. Being a man has never been harder, roles back in the day were well-defined (by other men) until women finally got involved, now the role definitions in many societies are changing forever, the process resulting in seeming unending social tumult as we roll from acceptance to rejection to acquiescence to what?... to embracing a more balanced understanding of our gender equality and living in peace and harmony? Really?

14. There are too many people on the planet, and the educated and wealthy few of them use up resources at a prodigious rate as well as create the waste that is choking the planet and retain the lion's share of the wealth. There is something deeply wrong and quite disturbing with this picture that has evolved during my tenure here on earth. The disparity of wealth continues to grow incredibly rapidly, no end in sight and no divine intervention to get the top 1% (or 10%) to realise that unless they spend and spend fast to support those down the line, we are all doomed. Whether you have an excess of $1Million or $100Million who needs excess?

15. Transportation remains pretty similar to what it was post steam turbine invention. Internal combustion engine, 2 or 4 or more wheels, close the door and broom broom... not very interesting. What happened to folding time on itself, teleportation, beam me up Scotty? Very, very unimpressed here.

16. Vaccines were heralded as amazing and who knows how many lives have been saved because of them, and now as well clinical treatments became better, and better understood and people are saved clinically. But things have become carried away and... its not clear how vaccines are good all the time and everywhere; from the debate about interfering in natural selection, the debate about their efficacy vs harms (autism, allergies), the debate as to whether they should be mandatory (shock/horror) and follow the 'protect the herd' formula. Is it black and white, or a murky shade of grey?

17. What to say about world peace? Politics have gone stupid-as. Seriously, led by the USA, the corporate takeover of politics or shall we just say the dominance of economic interest is very clear and 'people first' the underlying principle of any good governance... well you don't see it often. I had considered at one point of going into community level politics, but these days I am given pause when I see the nonsense that people engage in for their own self-aggrandizement or that of their business interests. It simply isn't worth the effort and the stress and grief. No wonder politicians are generally poorly equipped to govern, they are not the sharpest pencils in the box, the sharp pencils are running corporations that run the politicians.

18. Traffic patterns mirror society. Ever noticed that? How the traffic moves, how people react in their vehicles, the rules that are in place and how they are enforced are reflections of how a society functions, how well it is organized, how people treat each other, their levels of tolerance, etc. From Kabul to Kathmandu, Edmonton to Yangon I've been checking this out... blogworthy!

19. Taking off is more risky than landing.... a metaphor for life if ever there was one. How hard is it to bring about change? Get it off the ground? That is when all risk is taken on board? How many of us don't make changes because we don't like risk taking? And yet how many of us need to make the change happen? Landing... pishaw, how hard can that be when you have gravity on your side ;-)

20. We live in an era where a quick comeback can land you in a deep pile of doo-doo that you never expected.... people have a bit of a hard time taking a joke in these days of ultra-neo political correctness.

21. I'm single again! Single with kids and co-parenting. How does that feel? I don't know yet so new it is. More to follow but there is a lurking sense of liberty in there somewhere. Perhaps as I travel from East to West and back again this summer I'll feel it better. For now the transition isn't easy and finding the right place to be, the place that fits not an easy ask. For now it is a transition.

22. Back in the day, as a man, you could compliment a co-worker on her new hairstyle, or something she is wearing just as an off-the-cuff remark (and maybe even a wink)... these days, well, you gotta take care with that one... or youtoo could get the label... just sayin', the remarkable absence of men's voices from the #metoo discussion itself speaks volumes.

23. In just 3 generations (often only 2) we have forgotten how to grow food; how many people's parents grew some food of their own, how many don't grow their own food?

24. In just 2 generations (often only 1) we have forgotten how to cook our own food; how many people go out to eat at least once/day or buy pre-packed ready to cook meals (often re-heated in a microwave).

25. Food. Don't get me started... we have to recognize and realise and analyze and accept that the food we buy whether in the fresh market, in the super market or that we put on our plates is not what it used to be. Food has been adulterated, it has been tampered with genetically, it has been sprayed and messed about with and in ways we have no idea about. As I understand it, the manipulation of food production (glyphosate spraying, fertilizing, GMO, pesticiding, corporate farming, etc) is in the interest of producing enough to feed the world, when actually what we have is a distribution problem, is disingenuous. And we are poisoning ground-water sources and the oceans It smacks of corporate interest and is symptomatic of the takeover of yet another industry by the economically powerful and wrong-minded prioritization of commerce to serve profit not people. How did we let this happen? In 2 or 3 generations we have lost small holder farming, naturally organic growing and with it our food-connection to mother earth.

26. Travelling by plane is an economic privilege; some would argue it is a necessity because of where they live and for their work. But is it? Travelling by plane is also the single best way for an individual to deepen their carbon footprint and therein lies the conundrum, stepping into my footprinte would be a bit like falling into a rabbit hole, is that deep.

27. Where do I come from? Oh, you mean my Race? Ethnicity? Nationality? Identity? Residency? or do you mean did I just come from the pub? Please be specific, your question needs to reflect the intention, what information are you after, what is behind your enquiry. 

28. Where am I from? Having not lived in Canada now since 1997, have visited a few dozen or two times and still identify as Canadian and am a citizen as well as the UK from whence I sprung into the world. I am of Indian bloodline yetwas adopted early on and brought up by British parents. Where am I from? For my sons' that is another question, they have never had a sense of home identity, never lived in Canada or France where their Maman is from. Kasem at 11 has lived in 5 countries, where is he from? He is born in Malaysia but doesn't even have the right to citizenry there. The trendiness of being Third culture kids pales in comparison to this phenomenon that of ‘Multi-culture kids’ which is what mine are. Most importantly is this going to be a confusion as they grow into their years of establishing their identity or will they simply evolve into being global citizens of no fixed address and that will be okay?

29. Nothing is as it seems. Never forget this and you won't ever be disappointed.

30. People are not who you think they are, they are as complicated or as simple as you give them the perceptive space to be.

31. The vast majority of International schools are built on a business model. Be conscious of this all ye who are seeking one for your children. This is the lens to see them through when various quirks and twerks reveal that their prime motivation is to make money. Perhaps I am jaded, where my kids go to school in Yangon this has been clear, only skillful management can add the depth of quality to this equation without affecting the bottom line.

32. Once your kids turn 12 they pay adult fare to fly but on the majority of airlines still have to travel as unaccompanied minors with additional surcharges. There is something wrong with that. Either raise the age of paying an adult fare or get rid of the extra charges. The most important thing for an airline is weight, all their costs are fixed and it is with the weight that they play with their profit margin per flight. So how is it that a 30kg 12 yr old with hand baggage pays as much (or more if unaccompanied) as an 85kg adult with 23kgs of checked baggage and 7kgs of hand baggage? The whole air travel pricing system needs to rethink around who they are using as their profit centres.

33. $75 is today's price for 1 barrel (159L) of Brent Crude oil and the price is subject to global market forces which as we know affects the cost of petrol, of manufacturing and of goods... according to this article  https://interestingengineering.com/japanese-invention-converts-plastic-into-oil it takes 1kg of plastic to make 1L of crude oil, quick bit of math.... thats about $31/L. Some would argue that we need to reduce fossil fuel emissions not increase them but while we are ramping up and bringing down renewal clean energy costs, wouldn't this be the way forward? And who better positioned to bring this one in... than big oil. Government plays a role, for every barrel pulled from the ground one has to be made from Plastic... or you lose your exploitation rights. If you agree and if you have stocks in big oil? SPEAK UP, its the ultimate CSR, or remain part of the problem (see 48 below).

34. Speak up, the silent majority has to speak up. It isn't enough any longer to stay quiet in the corner nodding. If you see an injustice, say something, if you aren't actively involved and contributing to the solution... then you're part of the problem (see 49 below).

35 Balance is the key, at the individual level and on up through families and communities we have to find a balance everyone has yin and yang and yang has dominated for so long from left-brain oriented schooling to decisions based on economics (or politics!) not people... the state of the planet is the evidence, we bought into Keynesian economics and 'ran with the ball' and look where we are, loads of indulgent and wasteful prosperity but much more degrading, unsupportable, poverty. WE ARE OUT OF BALANCE.

36. Time for change
Men need to change up and accept women as equals. Salary disparities and unequal partnerships and everything in between need to be corrected. How long have we been talking about this? Weren't they burning bras in '66?  The shift has to come and it needs to come quickly, really frigging fast actually. You know I almost want to say, if you're over 50 and in a power position and you still think with your penis and don't know what I'm on about... step aside brother, you're done. Let us move on. 

37. WATCH the documentary: 'Occupy Love'

38. VOIP is amazing. Skype was the early-comer to voice over internet protocol (I know right ;-)) and I was as impressed then as I am now with all the copy cats... I mean free video telephony? Here in Myanmar people have gone from no access to telephony to deep penetration of smart phones with 4G in 4years... it is not clear yet how well this is going to go over in a society still very entrenched in tradition including how they communicate with each other and within communities. I have no doubt it will have far-reaching impacts both positive and negative.

39. WATCH Carl Sagan..

40. I need to recognize the patterns in my behaviour that do not serve me well or serve well those around me. I need to recognize them, identify the source of what causes them and change up in order to move on into a better place. We all have our shadow side, reconciling with it takes work. Do the work.

41. You need to love your work, or do you? Is it enough to love the fact that you have work? Is that where most people are at? For any reason besides loving it, they go to work and believe they are happy. Is it delusional to think you have to love your work because thats the premise I work off, why else would I spend 40+hours a week of my life engaged in something I didn't like to do?

42. What is clear to me these days is that having a job where the work day is more or less defined for you (a regular job) is akin to a luxury because why, because what could be easier than having someone prescribe when you should work, how long and even on what. For some a luxury, for others like a shackle. Hats off to entrepreneurs and the self-employed to innovators and inventors, you have to figure it out for yourself, lately I'm discovering this latter is much harder.

43. And then we have to wonder, about work and how we got to where we are in the world today... are we better off or worse when we have less time to spend with our families and friends or hanging out in nature. Pre-industrial revolution and still in many parts of the 'less industrialized' world, work is around food production and distribution (including selling and buying), then it became around manufacturing. The different work ethics that evolved apparently suits the culture, apparently. But it could be this isn't true and it could be that the tensions in our societies are rooted in the simple fact that people have to work too much to support their families. Middle class North America... can't survive without a double income? Japanese salaryman spends 16hrs a day including their commute. The poor work themselves to death, often literally.

45. Global circumstances at the time of writing are sadly grimmer than usual, actually I'd suggest that since what the Vietnamese call the American War we seem to be spiralling back into an era of chauvinistic nationalism for which World War II was fought and for which peace was won and institutions like the UN set up to prevent. What happened? And who let these idiots out of their cages (don't get me started)!

46. And then again, there is the notion (is it a Universal truth or a cop out...) that you shouldn't worry about that which you cannot change and its corollary that if you can change something then what have you got to worry about, go ahead and change it. The fact is that we are often in a position to change things or participate in a change movement... and then decide not to do so for any number of reasons; thing is, and you know who you are, some of those reasons are not very good ones.

47 Tied in to the above is the decision not to take in too much world media because of its negativity and its impact on our psyche and some people make the choice to ignore the world outside their particular bubble. But if we don't know about issues for example those around social justice, or around voting and we can be part of changing things for the better then how will they ever change if we don't know about them.... hmmm do we live in this world or don't we. Do we have a responsibility for seeing to it that a dictator who is undoing all the good work and ruining the environment for us all is unseated? Does voting mean we agree with the system and therefore we shouldn't vote?

48. If you're not part of the solution then you are part of the problem, just sayin'.

49. In matters of injustice if you remain silent then you are complicit in it. This is fact.

50. Have you discovered yet the 'Heart of Yoga' practice, discovered yet the beauty of the basic Tai Chi Chuan 24 movements, discovered how to move energy with the Qi Gong practice of the microcosmic orbit? You haven't? I invite you to please do so. Don't delay, find a conscious movement practice that works for you. Especially if you're over 50!

51. Did I mention finding balance yet?

52. Democracy doesn't work very well as we are seeing. 'Nuff said.

53. Did I mention balance in the context of managing our lives? It is all about balance, the framework I subscribe to is one where our body system can become out of balance, and needs realigning, rebalancing and recharging. We have to be able to flow otherwise we invite ill-ness (as opposed to well-ness) and dis-ease as opposed to ease. Which would you prefer... (please don't mind the following shameless advertisement).

54. I am at a bit of a loss turning 55 that many people of my age cruise along perhaps happy, perhaps thinking they are happy, perhaps not happy, perhaps not aware they are not happy, perhaps unhappy and unaware they can do something about it, perhaps unhappy and aware that they must do something about it but don't know what to do... whatever the case may be, the common element is that we want to be well. That is a human thing. Be well, visit my website and find out how... https://www.elementalwellness.life/

55. Don't ever, ever forget to breathe: https://imgur.com/gallery/DqK7H0S

Sunday, March 16, 2014

Mind yer back! - your Back, the Elements and Yoga

Back pain...what is it all about? Lately there has been a spate of back injuries among various friends and students much of it related to their posture in general but specifically their posture when sitting working on a lap-top computer or other desk-bound device so I thought I'd write about it. In very broad terms the origin of the physical problem of backs comes from not sitting on the floor like our evolutionary ancestors and the subsequent weakening of lower back  and core muscles and the gradual shortening of these muscles, the related fascia, a shortened psoas muscle and tight hamstrings. I should know after years of sitting at a desk, on chairs, and couches (although I don't watch TV anymore so my couch time is way down!) etc it wasn't until I had yoga'ed my way through my 40's that I am finally able to touch my toes (without bending my knees) in both seated and standing forward bends! Now I'm glad I can because my only lower back complaint is after lying in bed working on my lap-top for too long...like I am now, also not good.


thoracolumbar fascia - paschimottanasana
Engaging the TLC with the abdominal core and connecting this to lumbar pelvic rhythm with the tensor fascia lata.
The lower back is at the level of the second chakra in the sacral spine (water element) and the root chakra at the coccyx (earth). Earth and Water are inseparable. Earth contains water as it holds all bodies of water, but earth would be without purpose without the nutritive and purposeful flow of water within it...and water forms the earth. When we stand on one foot in any balance pose we see the relationship within us; you can't be stable if you are rigid, you have to flex and flow in order to find balance. So we might be grounded to the earth in a balance pose but we won't achieve it and be truly stable if we don't allow fluidity to come into the moment. Stability with fluidity...nature and the body reflecting the wisdom.


What about lifestyle and the lower back...whats involved there? The fact that we sit around on chairs and couches (a lot?) is not such a good thing... our 'girth' also plays a role. Sitting around on chairs and couches suggests we may not be getting enough exercise which is often combined with eating and possibly drinking a bit too much (?)...its a bit of a cascade effect... Consider this: a great way to address lower back issues is through yogic forward bends which stretches out the fascia and muscles of the lower back and hamstrings nicely....and they activate the meridian related to...you guessed it...the bladder, a water element organ helping to balance the energetics talked about above in the subtle body. Relating this to lifestyle then... even if you had nice long back muscles and a stretchy psoas...how can you bend forward if you have that extra cargo around your middle or if your liver is suffering from the abuse of the night before...diet right? lifestyle right? Just saying that you can go a long way to solving lower back problems not only by doing yoga asanas but adjusting your diet and lifestyle...thats real yoga.

I had lower back pain once...well an ache and stiffness so that if I lay in bed longer than 7hrs I would start to hurt. An osteopath was poking around in my viscera one day (the way they do) and we both felt a rubber bandy release in my middle back...he proceeded to do a couple of spinal adjustments and well...I haven't had lower back pain since. His assessment was that I had a twisted urethra (that cord connecting kidneys to bladder) and the pressure coming from my liver and stomach (when it was full) stressed the muscles around the kidney which pulled on my lower back muscles. He bet that if I could I would probably realise that the lower back stiffness was more prevalent during the party seasons (hmmm) when I consumed more food and drank more well, more drink. That was 7 yrs ago and I am lighter by 8kgs, have a much better nearly veg diet, barely drink booze and well...I do yoga and I have no lower back complaints.


Looking through the psycho/emotional/spiritual lens we see that the qualities of Earth energy are around the strength and stability, the grounding effect of gravity and the importance of a secure foundation, a feeling of belonging. Earth also sets the example of unconditional giving as mother earth gives and gives to us without judgment. Water energy is contemplative, reflective and adaptable taking on all shapes. It moves without effort and always arrives at a place of stillness. Water is a nice metaphor for realising the potential inherent in our lives and its issues; with patience we nurture them towards a calm resolution, growing our self-knowledge in the process. Balancing these elements through yoga practice, can help bring a sense of peace and calm to our lives and with that perhaps ease the strain in the lower back. This can be achieved through meditative practices and breathing and these when used in conjunction with asana practice will go a long way to helping your back.

Click if you want to know more about sitting...and if you want the details of managing your back through yoga asana this is great too. Backs are pretty specific though, spending time with a yoga therapist (hey, I'm a Yoga Therapist!) to understand the holistic dimensions of minding your back can be very valuable...we have 10 fingers and toes...two of most other things...but we only have ONE back! Take care of it! 

As I write we have just passed full moon in March which has a big effect on the tides, water content of plants and on us emotionally, psychologically and physically... ask yourself...'how does my back feel'? Its a great time to do some balancing water energy yoga! I can be reached at elementalyoga.daniel(at)yahoo(dot)com or if you're in Kathmandu 9803063459. If you want to go further in your practice and understanding of the elements and your yoga, together with Pranamaya studios we are holding an Elemental Energy retreat 24 - 26 March at Neydo Gompa...http://pranamaya-yoga.com/event/three-day-yoga-immersion-retreat-in-nepal-3/






Monday, August 5, 2013

First Impressions......return to Kathmandu!

I’ve been asked a few times for my first impressions of Nepal, returning now, 15 years since my last visit and 23 years since I last lived here.




the market in Durbar Square, Kathmandu hasn't changed in centuries.

What to say? It has definitely changed, I mean where could you travel to that hasn’t changed after 25 years……but at the same time, and in many ways, it hasn’t changed a bit.

Baba smoking chilums at Pashupatinath, boom shiva, this will never change!

I was sniggered at when I first suggested this on my second night in-country, that it hadn't changed much but now after two months and gaining several more ‘first impression’ reference points, I’d say it is actually pretty accurate and the sniggerer a result of the expat bubble phenomenon I will write on another time. 
This will never change, the kora around the stupa at  Bouddnath.


I use the goldfish bowl to describe the Kathmandu Valley experience over 23 years, bearing in mind that over this period the country had in 1990, a quiet revolution that ushered in a constitutional monarchy and diminished the role of the royalty in government. Then through the '90's came the build up to a harsh, acrimonious civil war that lasted through the 90's into the 00's and in the middle of which came the sudden shocking loss of nearly all the Royal family in a mass assassination in 2001. Here is a nice 'light' account of what may have happened, an event equally as surrounded by conspiracy theory as the assassination of JKF just not as well-publicized in Western mainstream media.

The Royals were revered by many and despised by many but were very much a part of the national identity, it is only in 2008 that the remaining Royal, King Geyandra was removed from any active political role and a Republic declared. The effect that the loss of the royalty has had both at the time of their mass assassination and when Geyandra was removed is like taking away the back-ground color on the national flag; they Royals provided a common reference point for an ethnically and politically diverse and divided population, religiously the King is believed to be the reincarnation of the Hindu god Vishnu and so it is hard for Hindus not to revere him. !...at the risk of over-stepping I reserve further comment leaving the subject to better informed pundits.

So I liken the valley to a goldfish bowl. The difference between now and 23 years ago is that the number of fish in the bowl has more than tripled, many of those kitch ornamental and whatnot aquarium thingys have been added  to some very old ones, some of the dominant fish are gone, but others remain.... and sadly it seems the fishbowl water hasn’t been cleaned in all that time. Fortunately there are still the same fish, still the same miraculous way that things function (like the very busy airport in the middle of the city!), still the same ‘namaste’ greeting with a smile and bow, still the same chaotic street level activity, the same things for sale, the same touts...same monuments many of which are now World Heritage Sites. If memory serves there were 800,000 people in the Valley in 1987, today there are estimated to be more than 3 Million with the same number of roads many of which have not been maintained or repaired since they were built. And now you can even build vertically upwards (apartment buildings have sprouted!). This was previously forbidden lest you be able to 'peek' into the Royal Palace grounds.



Thing is, the Valley and the whole country has changed significantly and in many ways. The rise of the Maoist insurgency following the political changes in 1990 (the year I left) has changed the character of the people. This was a nasty war, one that rose with unexpected stinging hostility, where people had X’s marked on their doors and were later killed, where men and children were taken in the night to fight at the front line. The ensuing conflict between the Maoists and the State cost 13,000 lives That sort of thing cannot go without affecting the national psyche and I sense a lack of community trust and a very much more dog eat dog, like a hunger, kind of attitude amongst the people. Having just come from Beirut, another war-affected nation, I recognize in any monetary negotiation, a grasping desperation in the people, a tendency to grab today what may not be there in an uncertain tomorrow. This is reflected in an abrupt approach to foreigners in the market place, in Nepal, that wasn't there before, bargaining was friendlier, funner and now there is a taste of acrimony once the deal is done.


Another clear knock on effect of the war has been the enormous influx of rural people into the Valley, the building that has gone on here in especially in the past 9 years (peace was declared in 2006) has been incredible. People displaced by the war didn't go back home once it was all over, they had established themselves, become comfortable and they are here to stay. This is ironic because as a direct consequence of the war (according to some long staying expats), a 'people's war', is that things have actually improved considerably in rural Nepal, from whence the insurgency rose, but in the capital…..the improvements are harder to achieve and therefore harder to see. Out in the country-side there are more roads, more schools and more clinics, more access to essential services and markets. In the Valley it is choked with traffic every day, access to services? well, there is access if you don't mind sitting in traffic half your day.
you might call Tribhuvan International Airport (KTM) an 'inner city airport!
...that is something that has changed significantly, the traffic and associated particle (dust) and gaseous  (exhaust emissions) pollution. A huge problem when because of weather patterns and the geomorphology of the Valley pollution gets trapped particularly during winter months apparently to suffocating extents. While there is much press about 'most polluted cities' Kathmandu ranks 29th on the WHO 2013 survey (many Chinese cities either do not monitor or report). It remains to be seen for us, how bad the pollution really is, I mean we were living in downtown Beirut for 3yrs! And...3 million people do live in the Kathmandu Valley, thriving and surviving...so it may be polluted but it is highly inhabited!

What the Valley clearly hasn't lost is something that no amount of people-made pollution or confusion will ever change. The Kathmandu Valley still has the Vibe; one of the most amazing spiritual vibrations of any urban area in Asia, perhaps the world. This vibration is carried forward hourly by the devotion of the people be it at their home altar, at the multitude of temples for morning and evening puja (prayer), walking the clockwise kora at Bouddanath or Swayambunath for the Buddhists or bringing your dead ones to be burned at the ghats at Pashupatinath for the Hindus. The Vibe is what brought the hippies to Kathmandu through those heady days of the '60's (and the black hashish), the Vibe continues to draw people to the Valley and is amplified by the plethora of festivals that occur year round.
Bhaktapur


The Valley has a fantastic climate; at 1300m+ altitude, even the monsoon heat has been a tolerable 31-33C and in winter it doesn't go below 5C so a bit uncomfortable for 2-3months/ year, the rest of the time it is fantastic with views (from September to May) of the Himalayas stretching along the East-West axis to the north of the Valley. There is amazing trekking in the Valley at Sivapuri National Park or the Queen's forest, biking, hiking, bird watching. And then there are the opportunities for personal and spiritual development in yoga (ex.http://pranamaya-yoga.com/), Buddhist studies, Ayurvedic medicine, Shamanic plant medicine ceremonies, Hindu philosophic exploration...you name it and its here.


Pashupatinath, burning ghats on the banks of the mighty Bagmati River


So that Vibe hasn't changed either and is part of what makes Kathmandu such a place that global travellers must not miss. I am teaching yoga here both privately (email: elementalyoga.daniel@yahoo.com) and at the studio mentioned above and will be open for Elemental yoga therapy clients in September and will be leading a yoga-trek in November, hopefully the first of a few that I will lead. 


Flower of Life
Certainly I am happy to put together trips for people who are interested in bringing a group over, yoga, retreats, treks, all are doable in collaboration with professional Nepali colleagues. If you want to join November's trek, let me know in advance and I'll pave the way...http://pranamaya-yoga.com/event/everest-yoga-experience-a-beautiful-trekking-and-yoga-holiday-in-nepal/ 

And so with that subtle yet cleverly inserted commercial plug(!) the journey continues, something else that never changes. I am sure Kathmandu will reveal herself even more as time and experience in the Valley goes on, through the people I meet and my explorations and as personal processes unfold....

oh and did I mention I'm getting a new mo'bike to help enhance the experience? Check it out... http://pricenepal.com/yamaha/75-new-fzs.html 

Namaste eh!